The first time I read about Indonesia’s fast boat reputation between Bali and Lombok/the Gili Islands, I was already three weeks into planning my first crossing, and it was too late to un-know it all. Instagram recounts of capsized boats and terrifying passages in gnarly weather made me more than a little nervous, which led me to be quite anxious for at least the first three crossings I took between Bali and Lombok.

I was not wrong to be a little nervous, but there is also a lot more to understand about Indonesia’s fast boats.

Why fast boats have a reputation

The Lombok Strait is a notoriously difficult stretch of water. It is a deep channel with strong currents funnelling between Bali and Lombok. If you have swum more than a few metres from the shore on the Gili Islands, you will know what I mean. Combine that with a tourism boom that outpaced regulation, and you get an industry where the worst operators have put tourists in danger, on multiple occasions.

Indonesia’s fast boat industry between Bali, Lombok and the Gilis is, by most honest accounts, poorly regulated. In Indonesia, there is no single authority enforcing consistent vessel inspections, staff training or passenger limits across every operator running this strait. Some companies are excellent, but some operations resemble rickety, repainted fishing boats with too many people on board and not enough life jackets to go around.

None of this means you should not go, or that you should choose to fly all the way to Lombok instead, which is hugely inconvenient if you are visiting the Gilis. It just means go in informed, choose carefully, and do not assume Western safety norms apply.

The basic safety check

Choose an established operator, look for life jackets before you settle in, do not board if the boat looks overloaded, and give yourself permission to change plans if the weather looks genuinely awful.

So is it actually safe?

Absolutely, but you need to know what you are booking. I have taken seven crossings from Bali to Lombok and the Gilis, and aside from general boating hiccups, every crossing has been absolutely fine. My best advice is to stick to well-established operators with a visible track record, check the boat is not overloaded before you board, locate the life jackets, and do not travel in bad weather.

Scary things that happen on board that are not actually scary

This is purely information I have gathered from seven crossings, over which I started out super anxious and with time have become completely relaxed taking this route.

Engine cut-outs are common. On practically every crossing I have taken, the boat has slowed or stopped mid-ocean for a few minutes. Almost every time, it has been plastic or rope tangled around an outboard propeller, not a mechanical failure. The crew cleared it quickly, and we were moving again.

When the boat stops, it rolls. When moving, the fast boat cuts through swell reasonably smoothly. Once stationary, the boat takes huge, looping rocks and rolls. It is unpleasant and nausea-inducing, but normally not dangerous.

Rough crossings happen. My bumpiest was Gili Trawangan back to Sanur in April 2023, early in my very first trip. We were never in danger, but it was a rougher sea day than I was expecting.

Things can actually go wrong, even with a good operator. On one Sanur to Gili Air crossing, the cabin filled with the unmistakable smell of burning plastic for a few minutes. An engine had clearly had some kind of electrical fault. The crew dealt with it calmly, we continued at a reduced speed, and we reached the port about 45 minutes late. It did not feel like an emergency, largely because the crew felt competent.

Take the sea-sickness tablets

Regardless of previous experiences, it is always a good idea to take sea-sickness tablets on this ride. You never know what the sea state is going to be like, and sudden stops in the ocean can make the boat rock in a very tummy-rolling kind of way.

The practical bit: booking a fast boat

Stick to companies with an established multi-year track record, a real website, and online reviews that go back further than a few months. Bluewater Express is the only company I have experience with, and honestly I would not bother trying anyone else at this point. Other companies that have come highly recommended to me include Gili Getaway and Eka Jaya, though they do not all have a squeaky clean safety record.

Picking your port

Padang Bai and Sanur, sometimes listed as Serangan, are the two main Bali-side departure points. Padang Bai tends to suit travellers based around Candidasa or Amed. Sanur and Serangan suit those in Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu or Ubud, even though Padang Bai can look better on a map. On the Lombok side, you will most likely land on Gili Trawangan, Gili Air, or Bangsal Harbour depending on where you are heading.

Timing and sea conditions

Catching the first boats of the day often leads to a calmer crossing. The first departure, often around 8am, tends to catch the sea before the wind picks up later in the morning. Later sailings are more popular with travellers who do not want an early start, but the trade-off is a choppier ride more often than not.

November to March brings rainy season and rougher water, with delays and cancellations more common. If your schedule allows it, avoid booking a fast boat for the same day as a flight.

Using Bluewater Express: what I have learned over seven crossings

This is by no means spon-con. I am not being paid to recommend Bluewater, nor have I ever been offered a free crossing with them. It is simply the company I have used the most — actually, the only company I have used.

My routes with Bluewater Express include Padang Bai to Gili Trawangan, Gili Trawangan to Sanur, Sanur to Gili Air return twice, and Sanur to Bangsal. The experience has been consistent enough that I am comfortable recommending them as the operator I would personally book again.

I have always elected to pay a little more to have Bluewater take care of my hotel transfers. When you book through their website, you can choose your route and date, then add a driver to collect you from your hotel and deliver you to your next one.

Important Gili note

You cannot arrange a hotel transfer from the Gili Air or Gili Trawangan ports. There are no motorised vehicles on the Gilis, so your options are walking or taking a cidomo, the traditional horse and cart.

The hotel transfer service is worth the extra cost because Grab and other rideshare apps generally are not permitted to operate inside the port zones at Sanur or Padang Bai. Without a hotel transfer, you are relying on whatever taxi happens to be hanging around.

What I paid

Most recently, myself, Chris and my parents travelled Sanur to Bangsal for a total of IDR 3,905,000, working out to roughly IDR 976,000, or about AUD $78, per person one way. The return leg, Gili Air to Sanur for two people, came to IDR 1,910,000 total, or about IDR 955,000, around AUD $76, per person. Exchange rates move, so treat the AUD figures as approximate.

Fares were correct at the time of writing and are based on recent personal bookings. Always check current pricing directly with your chosen operator before travel, as rates shift with season and demand.

Considering the slower option instead?

If you are still nervous about fast boats, the public ferry from Padang Bai and flying into Lombok International Airport are both alternatives, just slower and, in the flight’s case, not always cheaper once you add transfers. If you are only visiting Kuta Lombok or southern/eastern Lombok, flying may be the better option. If you are visiting the Gilis, the fast boat is usually the simplest route.